KCR Spring Summer 2026 Mag final - Flipbook - Page 40
Luca’s Restaur
MiMi MEÌ FAIR
For the ultimate Mayfair date night, there’s only one itinerary worth
considering.
Start proceedings at the Curzon cinema with an early screening of The
Met Opera or Royal Ballet, then make your way east to the best Chinese
restaurant in London (easily), where well-loved favourites are elevated
to unimaginably decadent heights.
The ground 昀氀oor of MiMi Meì Fair has the feel of a 昀椀rst-class dining
carriage on a steam train. With art deco tiling, old-fashioned gas lamps
and sultry, burgundy booths, it’s as though you’ve legitimately arrived
on the set of von Sternberg’s Shanghai Express.
Upstairs, the vibe is more in keeping with this century. Stuccoed walls
frame hand-painted botanicals, with brightly coloured banquette seating and comfy scalloped leather chairs for those in need of something
sturdier.
Service is exceptionally attentive, with waiting sta昀昀 happy to provide
counsel on levels of spice, crunch and tannins. Their sound advice was
to start proceedings with a smoky Illegal Szechuan cocktail and a round
of crispy langoustines.
Beautifully presented on cabbage leaf plates not dissimilar to the Portuguese Bordallo Pinheiro style, you’ll 昀椀nd yourselves clashing chopsticks
over the third caviar-topped Norway lobster, whose kingly appearance
and heavenly texture might convince you to skip your staple duck pancakes. Don’t, though.
MiMi Meì Fair’s apple wood-昀椀red o昀昀ering is far from run-of-the-mill.
Tender rather than crispy, there’s no scaling down to a quarter duck
permitted, but don’t worry, you’ll 昀椀nd room enough for plenty more
courses to come.
Besides, forgoing pan-seared scallops with Sichuan red chilli and divine
Dover sole would be incredibly poor form, and whilst you wouldn’t
traditionally pair 昀椀sh with red wine, you really must squeeze in a tasting
of the Silver Heights Cabernet Sauvignon from China’s Ningxia region,
which was almost indistinguishable from a Bordeaux.
Continuing the continental fusion, a side of olive fried rice made for an
interesting alternative to more familiar garlic or vegetable-based dishes
and bene昀椀ted from the moisture of the baby pak choi and 昀椀ery warmth
of black bean aubergine with chilli.
Dessert demanded something cooling and palate-cleansing. Matcha ice
cream and White Elixir Darjeeling tea from the Yunnan Province made
for a calming end to a truly memorable meal at a restaurant that has
already become a 昀椀rm favourite.
mimimeifair.com
Estella Rua
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
PAGE 40