KCR Winter 2025 2026 Mag V3 FINAL - Flipbook - Page 60
Mowgli, Charlotte
Street
ALTA, Carnaby
Street
You may have seen Mowgli’s iconic rope-swing seating and glinting ti昀케n
tins in any number of cities across the U.K. With outposts from Brighton
to Birmingham, former barrister Nisha Katona’s brand is one of the
nation’s fastest growing and has earned her an MBE for services to the
food industry.
Just behind the iconic Liberty department store is a 3-storey food court
known only to those with their nose 昀椀rmly planted on the scent of
British and international concept dining. Launched as a boutique food
destination just over a decade ago, Kingly Court has the feel of a miniature mall or indoor market, with some restaurants o昀昀ering dog-friendly
courtyard style seating.
Charlotte Street is the ultimate location for a post-work catch-up or
some respite from Christmas shopping madness. Always charming and
never too busy, there’s a real sense of romance to the twinkling lights of
its restaurants at night.
The o昀昀er at Mowgli is enticing. So much so that deciding on which
dishes to share can be an almost impossible task. But fear not: guidance
is at hand. First things 昀椀rst, get yourself a Chai Rum Sling, a refreshingly sweet take on a Long Island Iced Tea, with white rum, apricot syrup,
min and chai infusion. Perfect for a gentle, ca昀昀eine-assisted revival.
For the most exquisite texture, you can’t beat the sticky chicken poppers, whose initial crunch gives way to a soft molasses glazing reminiscent of sweet-and-sour chicken. Paired with spicy Himalayan Cheese
Toast and liberally dolloped with deluxe black Dahl, you’ll be more than
su昀케ciently appetised to make way for another cocktail. This time, make
it the Lychee Rose Martini, scattered with rose petals and suitably aromatic to smooth that all-important transition to your main course.
My companion mocked me for my predilection for Chicken Biryani,
but soon ate his words when the comforting, pillowy rice landed on his
plate, and ghee-laden, tender cuts of meat were spooned lovingly on top.
I don’t often opt for lamb, but the slow-cooked house dish, made from
an heirloom recipe, is particularly good, with anise and plum permeating every mouthful. For once, I wasn’t in the mood for 昀椀sh, but my
gallant guest paddled into boneless Goan curry with coriander and
smoky Kashmiri chillies.
Meanwhile, I ensured space for Gulab Jamun. Indulgent and gratifying,
these syrup-sweet milk doughballs with cooling vanilla ice cream are
an essential part of the Mowgli experience, served with or without Giles
Coren’s favourite Smoked Cardamon Old Fashioned.
For vegans, gluten-free diners, and those whose levels of indecision are
incompatible with à la carte, your needs are also accommodated with
ready-curated feasting menus and street food sharers.
There’s an invitingly straightforward kids’ menu too, complete with fancy 昀椀zztails, so even if you don’t get seated on the hanging chairs, you’ll
be sure to have a swinging time.
At the newly opened ALTA, an earthy yet organised ambience lends
itself to the perfect 昀椀rst date for foodies. Wood, stone and marble décor
make for a laid-back neutral territory where the rustic meets the contemporary; near enough to London’s nightlife to continue proceedings
on the dance 昀氀oor, yet comfortably close to Oxford Circus tube, should
you need to make a quick getaway.
ALTA’s clientele is mostly comprised of couples and small groups - all
noticeably chic and e昀昀ortlessly stylish, it has to be said. Perhaps it’s the
nonchalant blend of hip-hop and soul that lures them in, or the open
昀椀re cooking happening centre stage? Or maybe it’s the expertly crafted
cocktails - such as the dry and invigorating Pine Martini and the deeply
refreshing Cherry Kalimotxo - mixed on countertops adorned with dried
昀氀ower arrangements? Certainly, it’s a lot to do with the outstanding
quality and explosive 昀氀avour combinations of the food.
The menu, printed on sandstone-hued sugar paper, could be an atlas
of discovery for the person sitting opposite you. Are they adventurous
enough to try an oyster doused with gazpacho? Sophisticated enough
to know their crudo from their cecina? Naturally, we went for all three,
along with pointed bread for mopping purposes and a plate of exquisite
razor clams, shelled and laid lovingly alongside lemony strips of carrot.
Keeping in the tapas vein, known as pintxos in Basque, our plates were
soon populated with piquillo cod and hen of the woods mushroom (a
gorgeous, ru昀툀ed specimen basted with yeast emulsion, and served with
pine nut sauce and chives). The charlotte potato with mojo verde also
comes highly recommended. Salt-baked, pressed and fried, this is likely
to be the best hot potato you’ve ever handled. Make sure you order one
each.
For dessert, the densely rich La Vina cheesecake is a must. So too the
rather more unusual Chocolate, Bread & Olive Oil, consisting of chocolate mousse, bread sorbet and toasted marshmallow. By way of digestif,
the Café Carajillo - with banana liqueur, banana pollen and double
cream – can be served hot or cold.
www.mowglistreetfood.com
Even more enticing is the Pink Panther Punch with gin and hibiscus:
its vibrant tones are your visual cue to go dancing (if the date has gone
well), preferably at the blues bar just around the corner.
Estella Rua
Sid Raghava
www.alta-restaurant.com
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
PAGE 60
